The Official Fight Stick Modding Discussion

So I got my new sticks and buttons installed and WOW what a difference.I also got started on my cabinet.

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I recently got my IL joysticks and buttons from paradisearcadeshop.com

The joystick use the 75g cherry switches, and I'm using the 50g zippy's for the buttons. Much improved over the stock parts. A lot more responsive and jumping left and right is a lot easier.

If anyone else is still worried about whether the IL parts are compatible with the HAPP base, they are. I switched out everything except for the base that is screwed into the MBF board.
 
#*$% This Fight Stick!!!!!

How on Earth can this thing be modded? I mean really...I have an IL stick and I've been trying for hours to remove the base from the board and the wires from the switches to no avail. I'm about ready to throw this thing into the street unless someone can give me some pointers. Please help!!! :eek2:
 
My LT button isn't working. I don't know why, I never use it. any ideas on how to fix it?

EDIT: Weird, in training the input shows up but when sending a message it doesn't work when you're trying to hit "Symbols".


This is for 360, can anyone else see if they have the same problem?
 
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Today came the IL parts i ordered. I completely switched all the happ parts for IL. Even the buttons because i think Happ's quality degraded since they did the mk cabinets back in the days. Now everything is cherry switches and IL parts and it plays awesome!



Oh by the way i stuck with the standart concave US Style buttons because i never played on competition buttons. are they really that good?
 
Even the buttons because i think Happ's quality degraded since they did the mk cabinets back in the days. Now everything is cherry switches and IL parts and it plays awesome!

Oh by the way i stuck with the standart concave US Style buttons because i never played on competition buttons. are they really that good?

All Happ/Suzo parts now come with E-switches. Before Suzo, Happ contracted IL (all MK cabs at the time) which had all Cherry switches and it seems the IL molds had tighter tolerances. The difference on the switches: E-Switch is apparently 50 grams of actuating force and Cherry is 75 grams.

UPDATE: The newer Cherry switches IL uses are D44X series which are 45 gram actuating force.

As far as Concave Vs Convex use what you are use to. Concave is more the US standard and Convex is Japanese Standard. If Concave is giving you a hard time on response aka the actual Concave is interfering then I suggest switching to Convex. Otherwise stick with Concave if you are use to it.
 
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Re: #*$% This Fight Stick!!!!!

i can't stand fight sticks. they're too imprecise for my tastes. yeah yeah "practice practice....blah blah". no, i don't want to practice. i hated being forced to play with them in the arcades. i'm so glad today is the day of the console, where i can fight with the d-pad.
 
Re: #*$% This Fight Stick!!!!!

dude leave in the base! i had the same problem and almost trashed my stick because of it,you can not get the base out without killing the stick. just disassemble the rest of the joystick and put in the IL parts. and for the wires on the switches i suggest something like this:
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Re: #*$% This Fight Stick!!!!!


To answer your Happ ?:
All Happ/Suzo parts now come with E-switches. Before Suzo, Happ contracted IL (all MK cabs at the time) which had all Cherry switches and it seems the IL molds had tighter tolerances. The difference on the switches: E-Switch is apparently 50 grams of actuating force and Cherry is 75 grams.

UPDATE: The newer Cherry switches IL uses are D44X series which are 45 gram actuating force.
- The stick used is the Happ Competition Stick, basically a lesser clone of IL's Eurostick made by Suzo.
- When Happ purchased Suzo they dropped IL's contract.
- I don't recommend the Pushbutton wrench at all. PBs are plastic and only require hand tightening.
- I don't recommend purchasing directly from Happ for any controls as their customer service is horrible compared to third parties like Lizard Lick.
 
Can anyone tell me how many g of force these microswitches are?

These aren't cherry switches? Are you saying the eswitches are better than the ones IL currently is using? Sorry for noob questions.

All Happ parts are E-Switches and are apparrently 50 grams of actuating force. The new IL /w cherry is 45 grams.

Cherry has basically been the industry standard for micro-switches in US sticks and buttons.
 
I just ordered my new stick and buttons, but I am a little worried about the process. I have experience with the madcatz sticks, but this is a totaly different beast. Does anyone please have a video or something that explains how to replace the stick?? I don't wana mess this up. Or, is it pretty self explanatory once you get in there as to how to switch it out while leaving the base intact??

Thanks
 
Or, is it pretty self explanatory once you get in there as to how to switch it out while leaving the base intact??

Thanks

It's real simple
-Remove the E-clip from the joystick shaft bottom, that will take the actuator, shaft, dust cover, and spacer out.
- There are 4 screws that secure the microswitch plate to the base. Remove those 4 screws and you can pull out the spring and actuator mount. I left the wiring on the stock switch plate on so it was easy just to remove them one at a time to the IL plate without labeling the wires.
- Toss all the new IL parts in minus the base in the reverse order of disassembly and you are good to go. Don't forget to put the spacer in, many ppl forget it.
 
So, I'm better off buying the buttons, then ordering 5 of the cherry switches seperatly? Do they sell the same Happ buttons but w/the cherries? Just trying to know how much I need to spend. Thanks in advance...

Can anyone tell me how many g of force these microswitches are?
http://www.lizardlick.com/Happ-Competition-Pushbutton-Red_p_79.html

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These aren't cherry switches? Are you saying the eswitches are better than the ones IL currently is using? Sorry for noob questions.
 
IL Eurostick or a Sanwa JLW /w BatTop. Sanwa is much more sensitive and IL was the original Arcade stock stick.
Has anyone tried replacing the stock PDP joystick with a Sanwa? I'm getting fed up with the stock stick and I'm eager to change it out, but most of the comments I've seen have been about replacing it with an iL Eurostick. I'm new to stick modding, so I really don't want to buy something and find out it's the wrong size, or that it requires drilling new holes or something.

I don't really have a preference, since I'm not familiar with either stick, but the black iL's are out of stock everywhere, and the idea of added sensitivity appeals to me. If a Sanwa would be more of an ordeal, though, I'll just wait for an iL restock.
 
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