My MK2011 Custom Arcade Stick

red5iver

red5iver

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New stick


I just finished the wiring for my custom MK arcade stick. I was able to test it out on MKII (PS3) and it is working great and feels really good. The button layout is the UMK3 layout with two additional buttons above...they are in an awkward spot, but I basically ran out of workable room.

These upper buttons will be the same as the L2 and R1 on PS3 (LT & RB on Xbox) on the NRS TE stick (theirs feature small buttons above the joystick...odd place for them, but I guess we don't know exactly how the button configuartion will be handled.). If my set-up doesn't work, I can plug these buttons up, and add smaller 14mm buttons in a better spot.

As far as parts, the frame is made from maple...I carved the MK dragon logo into the front, the control panel is MDF with a Lexan top, the PCB is Toodles Cthulhu PS3/PC...it's phenominal...solderless and small, JLF joystick (with bat top add on), and Seimitsu buttons (eight 30mm and three 24mm). If I make another I'll possible use the more MK traditional HAPP or similar parts). There is also a UBS feed-through for easy USB connect/disconnect and storage.

It's a satisfying project that I recommend to all. I had no wiring experience and hadn't worked with wood since 7th grade shop class. I have done a little bit of drawing, and wood carving over the years. There are some great websites to help. I highly recommend slagcoin.com...very helpful. All parts (besides the wood, lexan, and screws) can be purchased at lizardlick.com...another great site, with very fast shipping. Hopefully this stick will work well with MK2011, and the Klassic HD game, if it's more than a rumor!

Anyway, I figured I'd share, and would appreciate any feedback!
 
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im impressed. I don't know what i like more the ones i am getting with the TE or yours!!! how the hell did you wire it???? I heard you can mod the new ones if you want. I don't have the slightest clue how to... TEACH ME
 
Great looking stick! If you don't mind me asking how long did it take you to put it together, approximately how much did it cost, can this stick be used wireless?

BTW based on the official MK9 stick the game will be using the classic UMK3 layout so your stick should work just fine.
 
Thanks for the compliments! Wiring was easy with the PCB I bought...it's set up so you just need to strip and crimp the wiring...no soldering required. Modding is out of my league unless it's just swapping buttons, joysticks...Tim or some of the other mods probably know more on the subject. Check out slagcoin.com for help...it's a "how to make a stick" tutorial.
 
truendymion said:
Great looking stick! If you don't mind me asking how long did it take you to put it together, approximately how much did it cost, can this stick be used wireless?

BTW based on the official MK9 stick the game will be using the classic UMK3 layout so your stick should work just fine.
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Thanks! Cost was about $130...the inside parts alone ran about $100. Time...I'd say working 2-3 hours a few days a week for a month or so.

Tim Static said:
Epic stuff. :hail:
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Thanks Tim, but your UMK3 skills are epic...you and your crew rule that game!

truendymion said:
Great looking stick! If you don't mind me asking how long did it take you to put it together, approximately how much did it cost, can this stick be used wireless?

BTW based on the official MK9 stick the game will be using the classic UMK3 layout so your stick should work just fine.
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Missed the wireless part of your question haha. No, it's wired and I'm sure there's no easy way to have it wireless unless I redid the PCB. I hear wired is better than wireless...lag issues with some wireless sticks.

Please edit posts instead of double/triple posting. Thank you, K1LL - TRMK Staff
 
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red5iver said:
Missed the wireless part of your question haha. No, it's wired and I'm sure there's no easy way to have it wireless unless I redid the PCB. I hear wired is better than wireless...lag issues with some wireless sticks.
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I was a little confused about the removable cable. I thought it might work like a wireless controller where its only used for charging :p
 
Could you list what items you used on the whole and the amounts of used items?

the wiring for the whole thing, is that a standard electrical wire? or ??

As you can tell, i'm a noob to this stuff and don't know my electricity-sh*t... :D LOL


I would like to build one myself so that way i'll know what to get.

Thanks
 
MajorWeirdo said:
Could you list what items you used on the whole and the amounts of used items?

the wiring for the whole thing, is that a standard electrical wire? or ??

As you can tell, i'm a noob to this stuff and don't know my electricity-sh*t... :D LOL


I would like to build one myself so that way i'll know what to get.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Okay, here's the breakdown on cost for what I used for this stick (all items purchased from lizardlick.com):
*Sanwa JLF-TP-8T Joystick: $22.95 (NOTE: JLF-TP-8YT-SK is the same price but easier to mount due to wire connection placement.)
*Sanwa Bat Top Adapter: $0.50 (NOTE: ball tops available $2.95 each)
*Sanwa LB-30-N Bat Top $4.95
*Toodles Cthulhu for PC/PS3: $29.95
*Seimitsu PS-14-GN 30mm Pushbutton x8: $2.95 each x 8: $23.60
*Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm Pushbutton x3: $2.50 each x 3: $7.50
*Sanwa JLF-H Wiring Harness: $2.50 (NOTE: JLF-TP-8T comes with a wire harness)
*Neutrik NAUSB-W-B A/B USB Feed-Through: $7.95 (optional)
*Neutrik SCDP Rubber Boot for NAUSB: $2.95 (optional)
*LL Quick Connect, .110" Insulated: $0.10 each, x 22: $2.20
*LL 22 AWG Stranded Wire: $0.25 per foot, x 20: $5.00 (20 feet was way more than enough)
So that's a grand total of $109.20 plus tax and shipping. So the TE stick from NRS is a fantastic deal...$100 and it's ready to go!

You can use a variety of wire, but the 22 AWG works great and is sold where I ordered all of the parts. I knew nothing about wiring going into this...the internet is a great tool to get all the info you will need. With the Cthulhu, all I needed to do was cut wire, strip each end, and crimp one end into .110 quick connects, which attach to the buttons...the other end screws into the Cthulho PCB to the button function (X, triangle, L2, etc). To make a common ground to all of the buttons, it's a matter of twisting two ends of stripped wire together, then crimping them into the disconnects...don't be intimidated by the wiring...it's the easiest part of the project. The woodworking is the most time-consuming...cutting holes in the lexan (acrylic glass) is a little hairy as well.

"Wow, that's pretty cool. You're very talented, sir/mam."

Haha...I'm a dude, Ricochetmatt, and thank you.
 
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red5iver said:
Okay, here's the breakdown on cost for what I used for this stick (all items purchased from lizardlick.com):
*Sanwa JLF-TP-8T Joystick: $22.95 (NOTE: JLF-TP-8YT-SK is the same price but easier to mount due to wire connection placement.)
*Sanwa Bat Top Adapter: $0.50 (NOTE: ball tops available $2.95 each)
*Sanwa LB-30-N Bat Top $4.95
*Toodles Cthulhu for PC/PS3: $29.95
*Seimitsu PS-14-GN 30mm Pushbutton x8: $2.95 each x 8: $23.60
*Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm Pushbutton x3: $2.50 each x 3: $7.50
*Sanwa JLF-H Wiring Harness: $2.50 (NOTE: JLF-TP-8T comes with a wire harness)
*Neutrik NAUSB-W-B A/B USB Feed-Through: $7.95 (optional)
*Neutrik SCDP Rubber Boot for NAUSB: $2.95 (optional)
*LL Quick Connect, .110" Insulated: $0.10 each, x 22: $2.20
*LL 22 AWG Stranded Wire: $0.25 per foot, x 20: $5.00 (20 feet was way more than enough)
So that's a grand total of $109.20 plus tax and shipping. So the TE stick from NRS is a fantastic deal...$100 and it's ready to go!

You can use a variety of wire, but the 22 AWG works great and is sold where I ordered all of the parts. I knew nothing about wiring going into this...the internet is a great tool to get all the info you will need. With the Cthulhu, all I needed to do was cut wire, strip each end, and crimp one end into .110 quick connects, which attach to the buttons...the other end screws into the Cthulho PCB to the button function (X, triangle, L2, etc). To make a common ground to all of the buttons, it's a matter of twisting two ends of stripped wire together, then crimping them into the disconnects...don't be intimidated by the wiring...it's the easiest part of the project. The woodworking is the most time-consuming...cutting holes in the lexan (acrylic glass) is a little hairy as well. QUOTE]


Thanks for that man, now i've got an idea of what i need exactly, already took a look a the sites you gave before so i had my idea, but missed out on a few things.

Why would one need the Neutrik USB feed-through? the Cthulhu PCB comes with a USB connector no? (ooh, maybe that's why you stated "Optional")

REP+ !
Click to expand...
 
Anytime Major! That USB feed-through is only a cosmetic part...the Cthulhu does have the USB port, but without a feed-through the stick would always have a USB chord hanging from it. With a feed-through you can unplug the chord from the ouside of the stick. Just a matter of preference, ya know? I forgot to mention above that you'll need a USB A-B chord for the arcade stick, for whatever length you'd like. If using the USB feed-through, you would also need a small (6"-18") USB A to B chord. Monoprice.com has great prices for chords. Good luck, and let me know if I can help!
 
Update on my custom MK2011 arcade stick(s)!

Hey all! I finished up a 2nd MK arcade stick in the wee hours of the morning. I think I was able to capture the TE stick layout a little better, as I used two 18mm buttons in close proximity to where the TE stick has placed them. It's a walnut frame, MDF CP with a Lexan top. No carving on this one, since the walnut is so damn nice when it's finished. Please take a look and let me know what you think!

Front view:
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Back view:
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The twins!
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